Hemlock Cliffs: Indiana’s Hidden Rainforest
There’s something about a perfect summer day that makes you want to drop everything and chase an adventure. That’s exactly what my brother Sam and I did — fueled by sunshine, good coffee, and questionable amounts of cinnamon rolls — when we headed south to one of Indiana’s most underrated gems: Hemlock Cliffs in Hoosier National Forest.
I’d seen the photos: mossy sandstone bluffs, hidden waterfalls, trails so lush they looked more like the Pacific Northwest than Southern Indiana. But seeing it in person? Way better.
Tagging along was Kai, my adventure-loving dog (and arguably the real MVP of the trip).
Hemlock Falls
Sweet Treats, Forest Dreams
Before hitting the trail, we decided to detour along the Discover Southern Indiana Sweets and Treats Trail — basically a scavenger hunt through small-town bakeries and ice cream shops.
Our first stop was Magic Morning Bakery in Bedford, where we loaded up on cinnamon rolls, long johns, and coffee strong enough to launch a rocket. Highly recommend if you’re into pastries that could ruin your life in the best way.
You can check out the full Sweets and Treats Trail here.
Fueled up and buzzing from sugar, we jumped back on the road:
From Bloomington, take State Road 446 south to Highway 37.
Keep heading south about 20 miles — watch for signs for Hemlock Cliffs on your right.
Trailhead parking is easy to find, but fair warning: no restrooms.
First Impressions: A Hidden Rainforest
Choosing our own adventure
Stepping onto the Hemlock Cliffs trail feels like walking into another world. The air smelled like rain-soaked leaves and warm earth, and the forest practically hummed with life.
Ferns lined the path, wildflowers splashed the green with color, and somewhere in the distance, we could hear the steady rush of a waterfall.
Pro tip: Wear good hiking shoes (yes, even though the trail is short — the rocks can get slick fast, especially after rain).
Within the first 10 minutes, we hit our first waterfall — Hemlock Falls — spilling gracefully down a 60-foot cliff framed by hemlock trees. Kai handled the slippery rocks like a four-legged pro while Sam and I took turns slipping, laughing, and pretending we meant to do that.
Going Off-Trail (Kind Of)
One of my favorite parts of Hemlock Cliffs is how it invites exploration without feeling overwhelming.
We followed a small side trail to a mossy overhang — a natural amphitheater hidden just out of view. Sitting there, sheltered from the sun, it felt like time paused. No crowds. No noise. Just the slow drip of water from the cliffs and the feeling that we were standing somewhere ancient.
Later on, the trail splits — definitely take the optional loop if you have the energy. Scramble up the rocks and you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping cliff views and cool, shaded coves perfect for catching your breath (or pretending you’re on some epic expedition).
We even ran into a group of climbers rappelling down the cliffs — their energy was contagious and honestly made me want to add "learn to climb" to my bucket list.
Sam taking in the view
Adventure dog
Quick Tips for Hemlock Cliffs
Distance: ~1.2-mile loop (but plan to wander — you'll want to)
Difficulty: Easy to moderate (some scrambling if you explore off the main trail)
Best Time: After a good rain, but not too muddy
Shoes: Hiking shoes with grip. Trust me.
Dog-Friendly: 100% — Kai-approved.
Leave No Trace: Pack out everything you pack in. Let’s keep it wild.
Bonus Tip: Bring a lightweight daypack and extra snacks — it’s not a long hike, but you’ll want time to chill and explore.
The Sweetest Ending
Another stop on the Sweets and Treats Trail!
On the way back to Bloomington, we wrapped up the day with another Sweets and Treats stop: Hometown Scoops in Orleans. Cotton candy ice cream for us, a pup cup for Kai, and a feeling that life doesn’t get much better than this.
Final Thoughts
Hemlock Cliffs might not be the tallest or the most famous hiking spot out there. But what it is — is pure magic.
It’s proof you don’t have to travel across the country to find wild beauty. Sometimes, it’s just down a winding road, past a sleepy bakery, waiting for you to show up.
If you love secret waterfalls, mossy trails, and the kind of summer days that linger in your memory — put Hemlock Cliffs on your list.
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